TRAVEL GUIDES
Our Guide To Lofoten
Some places live in your head for years as a "someday" dream. For Nils, that dream was Lofoten. So, for his 30th birthday, we decided to stop waiting for "someday" and pulled off the ultimate trip.
Located inside Norway’s Arctic Circle, Lofoten is a stunning chain of islands where dramatic mountains rise straight out of the ocean.
Getting there is a bit of a trek. For us, it meant flying from Oslo to Bodø, then hopping on a tiny propeller plane to Svolvær. But he moment you see those mountains rising out of the Ocean, you realize it’s worth every single mile. Looking down from the window, the islands looked so tropical and exotic. The moment we landed, it was a total shock to the system: crisp Nordic air mixed with vibrant green peaks and bright turquoise water. The contrast is so mind-blowing it almost looks like it was generated by AI.
We went in July and at that time of the year the sun never truly sets, meaning you can head out for a hike at midnight under a warm golden sky. Incredible!
We’d been bombarded with warnings that July would be unpleasantly packed but we realised those comments came from Nordics who are used to absolute solitude. To us, it felt incredibly remote and quiet. The roads were easy, and we often had beaches entirely to ourselves.
The warnings are true for accommodation, though. There are few hotels, so we had to book ours back in February. It's also worth noting that Lofoten is definitely an expensive destination. Norway in general isn't cheap, but because the islands are so remote, everything from hotel rooms to eating out at restaurants comes with a premium price tag.
The crowds also depend on how you travel. Lofoten has exploded as a backpacking destination, and recent bans on wild camping mean campsites and nearby beaches do get super packed. But if you’re not backpacking and you stay away from those areas (Kabelvåg, Flakstad, Gimsøy, Rystad , Moskenes, Laukvik, Lyngvær, Kvalvika beach), you will be totally fine.
We got our first tips from Nils’ parents, who love visiting friends there in summer or winter for a cosy, snowy kind of magic. But since we experienced its summer glory firsthand, this guide is fully focused on the brighter months. From hotel gems to the quietest beaches, here is our personal guide to these unbelievable islands.
Where to Stay
Nusforjd, Lofoten
From 400€ per night
We initially wanted to stay here but when we first checked in February, it was already fully booked for our dates in July! However, we managed to come check it out and had dinner at their restaurant Karoline. We walked around the property and could easily imagine spending a couple of slow days here: coffee in the morning, sauna or a dip by the sea, kayaking on the fjord, and dinner without needing to drive anywhere. Come here if you want something boutique and considered, but not overly designed.
Henningsvær, Lofoten
From 250€ per night
Trevarefabrikken is a café, restaurant, bar, pizzeria, sauna, event space and cultural meeting point all at once. It’s set inside a former factory where the industrial details are still part of the charm. It brings a lot of live to the small village: people working on laptops, heading for the sauna, catching concerts or simply hanging around. The atmosphere is slightly more digital nomad than secluded hideaway. If you like places where travellers, locals and creative people naturally overlap, this is a great base.
Leinesfjord, Steigen
From 500€ per night
Manshausen is technically just outside Lofoten, but it absolutely deserves a place in this guide. It became one of the most memorable stays of our trip. The sea cabins are modern, minimal and completely immersed in nature, with huge windows facing the water, the mountains and, depending on the season, either endless summer light or a sky full of stars. During the day, you can kayak, row, hike, sit in the sauna, or do very little at all, which might actually be the point. The food was the best we had on the entire trip: local, seasonal, beautifully executed and slightly cinematic in the best possible way.
HOLMEN
Sørvågen, Lofoten
A tiny, family run hotel and restaurant set amongst a beautifully restored collection of traditional fisherman’s cabins right on the water’s edge in Sørvågen. The whole ethos there is about connecting with nature, from the minimalist Nordic design to their incredible kitchen, which focuses entirely on local, seasonal foraging and fresh catches. It’s not flashy but rather high-end, wrapped in raw nature. The perfet spot for couples, food lovers, and anyone looking for a special, slow-paced getaway.
From 400€ per night
KJEØYA
Ballstad, Lofoten
From 1500€ per night
Kjeøya is a small, exclusive private island retreat located just off the village of Ballstad in the Lofoten archipelago, offering absolute privacy in a spectacular setting. It’s the ultimate escape for travelers looking for a completely secluded hideaway where you feel like you have the entire Arctic landscape to yourself. On the island, you live alone with beautiful nature, sheep, grouse and eagles. The fish farm consists of 3 unique suites in a historic style, in addition to 1 design micro house - total capacity for 8 guests.
What to do
RENT A CAR
You definitely want to rent a car in Lofoten. Distances are longer than they look and buses are not built around spontaneous beach stops, late dinners or sudden “the light is perfect” moments. A car gives you the freedom to move with the weather, which is probably the best way to experience the islands. Just drive slowly, allow extra time, watch for narrow roads and expect to pull over constantly. Half the experience is what happens between the places you planned to visit. We booked ours here.
Lofoten
HENNINGSVAER VILLAGE
Henningsvær is one of the cutest and most cultural villages in Lofoten, spread across small islands connected by bridges. Come for the cafés, galleries, local shops and harbour walks, and stay long enough to feel the creative energy that has made the village so popular. If you’re looking for a proper Norwegian knitted sweater, this is a good place to look ( but be ready to pay for it). We also went to see the famous football pitch, often described as one of the most beautiful in the world, thanks to its surreal location between sea, rocks and mountains. Nils was more impressed than Ines.
Henningsvær, Lofoten
KAVIARFACTORY
In Henningsvær, an old caviar factory has been transformed into one of Lofoten’s most unexpected cultural stops: a contemporary art gallery right by the sea. The collection is genuinely strong, with both Norwegian and international artists represented, and the contrast between remote fishing village and ambitious contemporary art makes the visit feel quite special. Nils, however, might have been even more impressed by the location than the art itself. Standing there, with the water and mountains just outside, it’s hard not to feel that the building is part of the exhibition too.
Henningsvær, Lofoten
GO ON HIKES
We know we’re stating the obvious here, but plan to hike. A lot. People travel from all over the world for Lofoten’s mountain trails, and the views really are one of a kind. You haven’t really been to Lofoten if you haven’t done at least two or three hikes. That said, don’t underestimate the terrain; short hikes can still be steep, exposed or slippery, and the weather changes quickly. Bring proper shoes, snacks, water and a layer you think you won’t need. Our favourites: Offersøykammen, Mannen, Nubben, Hoven.
Lofoten
NUSFJORD VILLAGE
Even if you don’t stay at Nusfjord Village & Resort, Nusfjord itself is absolutely worth a short visit. It’s one of those small, well-preserved fishing villages where you mostly want to wander slowly, look at the old wooden buildings and take in the harbour views. If you’re heading for dinner or lunch, arrive early and give yourself time before your reservation. We would recommend having a beer by the sea first!
Nusfjord, Lofoten
EXPERIENCE THE MIDNIGHT SUN
If you’re visiting between May 28th and July 14th, you get to experience 24/7 daylight. The days literally never end, which is incredible for packing a lot into your trip. If you can try shifting your schedule forward by a few hours so you can hike in the middle of the night. It’s easily the most beautiful time of day, and you'll have the mountains and the roads almost entirely to yourself. Some of the absolute best spots to catch the midnight sun are Eggum, Gimsøya, Unstad, Uttakleiv, Ramberg, and Kvalvika.
Lofoten
SAUNA
A real Norwegian sauna is a must in Lofoten. Even in summer, the ocean is cold, so the combination of heat, steam and brave little dips into the sea works all year round. Some accomodations have their own sauna (we were able to use the one from Manshausen each day during our stay) but there are also saunas you can book from outside. Some are shared, others can be privatised (though you might want to book in advance). It’s one of the best ways to end a hiking day.
Lofoten
RAMBERG BEACH
Ramberg Beach was one of our favourite beach stops in Lofoten. It has that almost unreal Arctic-beach look: pale sand, clear blue water and mountains all around, but with a rawness that keeps it from feeling too postcard-perfect. We ended up buying beers and sitting on the seaweed-covered rocks in the late evening sun before dinner, which was exactly the kind of simple Lofoten moment we came for. It’s easy to reach, easy to love and especially beautiful when the light softens.
Ramberg, Lofoten
HAUKLAND BEACH
Haukland is definitely one of Lofoten’s most famous beaches, so don’t expect total solitude here, especially in the summer when day-trippers gather on the sand. Still, it’s popular for a reason: the white sand, bright turquoise water, and dramatic mountains rising right behind it are just spectacular. We actually used it as our base for a hike, coming down the mountain on the other side at Uttakleiv Beach (where we were lucky enough to see dolphins!). Afterward, we walked right back to Haukland. There’s a small little cafe on the beach there, which is perfect to grab a bite or a drink before or after you head out.
Haukland, Lofoten
KIRKEFJORDEN
Kjerkfjorden is a small, very remote fjord area reached by local ferries from Reine, and it’s a lovely starting point if you want to feel properly secluded in nature. From here you can access hikes towards wilder beaches and valleys, but this is not the kind of place where you improvise too much. Check ferry times, bring food, bring layers and don’t expect facilities once you arrive. It started pouring down towards the end of our hike and we had to rush to the boat hut, but we still enjoyed our picnic and hike before!
Reine, Lofoten
GO KAYAKING
There are a few places to kayak in Lofoten, and we highly recommend making time for it. The islands are dramatic from land, but from the water they feel even more impressive with the mountains rising straight from the sea and the water so clear it almost looks like the Maldives. When we stayed at Manshausen, they had their own kayaks and rowing boats, which made it very easy. Some Norwegian friends also recommended kayaking in Kirkefjorden during midnight-sun hours or in Skrova island.
Lofoten
HOV GARD HORSE FARM
Hov Gard is a horse farm by the sea we wanted to visit but didn’t get the time on this trip. They offer horseback riding tours throughout the day that go from the beach and waters into the mountains and even propose a midnight-sun riding tour in the summer, which looks like an incredible experience. They also have a restaurant and a sauna that you can book in advance but they have specific availabilities. (We wanted to do plan a ride followed by a sauna but the timings for our day didn’t match).
Gimsøysand, Lofoten
TROLLFJORDEN
Trollfjorden is one of the classic boat trips to do from Svolvær, especially if you want to experience Lofoten from the water without committing to a full-day excursion. The fjord is narrow and surrounded by steep mountain walls, so arriving by boat gives a different perspective on the landscape. Many tours combine Trollfjorden with sea eagle spotting. While we didn’t get the time to fo to Trollfjorden in the end, we decided to keep this in here anyway since we know it's a highlight for many others.
Svolvaer, Lofoten
SKROVA ISLAND
Skrova is a day trip Nils’ parents highly recommended. A small island just off Svolvær, it seems slower, quieter and more local than some of the bigger Lofoten stops, with a very active fishing community, galleries and photography exhibition and harbour life. Also called the “Hawaii of Lofoten”, it has white pristine beaches and beautiful views. To visit Skrova, you can take the ferry over from Svolvær. It takes around 30minutes but there’s only 4 departures a day (in high season) so organise your time in advance.
Skrova, Lofoten
What to Taste
Nusfjord, Lofoten
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Set in the old fishing village of Nusfjord, Karoline has that cosy wooden-room feeling but with a much more considered kitchen than you might expect in such a remote place. The menu leans into local seafood, northern Norwegian flavours and produce from nearby farms and fishermen. You’ll want to reserve ahead, especially if you’re planning your day around Nusfjord. Come early, wander the village, have a drink by the water and then settle in for dinner.
Sørvågen, Lofoten
€€€€
This is the restaurant from Holmen. The whole experience is focused on what they call "coastal foraging", meaning the menu changes constantly based on whatever the raw Arctic nature provides that exact week. One day you’re eating incredibly fresh fish caught right out of the water in front of you, and the next it’s local lamb or wild herbs picked from the nearby hills. Because it’s a premium, high-end destination, the dinner is definitely an investment (like most great meals in Norway).
ORIANA TAVERN
If you want to have lunch or dinner at Nusfjord and are looking for something simpler than Karoline restaurant, Oriana Tavern would be a perfect option. It’s set in a historic whisky cellar and is always candle-lit during the darker hours. It has a very rustic and unpretentious pub vibe. The menu is very simple: you can have pizza (with a nordic touch) and drinks, great for an easy comfort meal after a day in the water or a hike.
Nusfjord, Lofoten
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UNSTAD ARCTIC SURF
Bøstad, Lofoten
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Hands down the best cinnamon bun that has ever been made. Unstad Arctic Surf is a surf lodge and café in one of the most windy little corners of Lofoten, where the surfers seem fearless because how else do you explain getting into that cold water? The only thing keeping them warm might be these buns. They are soft, generous and exactly what you want after a windy beach stop. Nils has never had better, and being Swedish takes cinnamon buns very seriously.
ANITA SJOMAT
Sakrisøy, Lofoten
€€
Anita Sjømat is a very Scandinavian stop in Sakrisøy, close to Reine: part seafood bar, part delicatessen, part “we should probably buy something for later” shop. The fish burgers are the thing to try, but you’ll also find smoked fish, stockfish, prawns, king crab and even sushi. It’s a good place to stop when you’re already driving through the area, especially if you want something casual and very local. We wouldn’t necessarily make a long detour just for it, but as a road-trip lunch, it works perfectly.
GAMMELBUA
Gammelbua, was once the old snack bar on Reine and today is a more sit-down restaurant with a small but very local and fresh fish-focused menu, prepared in a traditional way (dishes include whale carpaccio, scallops, halibut…). It’s part of the Reine Rorbuer fishermen cabins and if you are staying there, you can even go fishing and ask the restaurant to prepare your own catch at the restaurant. The vibe is super cosy and very Norwegian with rustic decor and wood everywhere.
Reine, Lofoten
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MAREN ANNA
A small seafood restaurant in Sørvågen, towards the south tip of Lofoten, with a beautiful sea-view from the tables outside and a nice view to the harbour from the tables inside by the window. They are particularly famous for their fish soup and local beers. Again, the price might seem slightly on the higher end for the type of restaurant, but that is basically Lofoten pricing again.
Sørvågen, Lofoten
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Å BAKERY
Å, Lofoten
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If you drive all the way to the very end of the main road in Lofoten, you’ll run right into Å, a village so old-school its name is just a single letter. Since many tourists come here, they’ve turned the village a bit into a museum where you can visit each old house and building as part of a tour. One of them is the bakery which they’ve kept super traditional and cute bake their cinnamon rolls and bread in the old stone oven from 1878. Careful, they close pretty early at 3pm.
HEIM BRYGGA
If we make it to Skrova next time, Heimbrygga is probably where we’d try to eat. It’s a 200 years old charming wooden building and the oldest running on Skrova. Right by the ferry dock, it has great reviews and looks like a warm, characterful place with local food and a traditional setting. The kind of spot that could make a small island detour feel very worth it. They also have rooms for anyone looking for accomodation to stay in Skrova. It doesn’t look like anything fancy but seems comfortable and easy.
Skrova, Lofoten
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POLARHAGGEN
There’s a young couple living in Lofoten that grows permaculture vegetables in their own farm garden (proof that things really can grow up here!). In the summer, during the famous midnight sun, they host "pop-up pizza" nights. As a former chef, Parsa has become a master of the wood-fired pizza... (completely free of animal protein). They are planning to transform the barn of the former dairy farm they just bought into a full vegan restaurant. In the meantime, have a look at their instagram for pop-up nights.
Leknes, Lofoten
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AIMEE’S FARM
A farm-to-table restaurant working with regenerative methods and producing their own meat and vegetables. They serve grass-fed beef, free-range pork, and local Lofotlam (the region's protected, high-quality lamb), alongside their own potatoes and fresh veggies. They specialise in five-course dinners and steak tastings, but you must book at least one day in advance since all is prepared fresh using their own farm produce. (They don’t serve fish, and they unfortunately cannot accommodate vegan diets.
Valberg, Lofoten
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